Gewürztraminer, a Spicy and Interesting Varity

While not much of this Germanic style variety is grown in northeast Ohio, it is a wine which will interest most who enjoy regional Pinot Gris’ [Grigios] and Rieslings. Often it is avoided because its name looks so intimidating [ga-vertz-tra-me-ner], hence the ‘gee-wiz’ nickname.

The European growing district known as Alsace [an historic area between France and Germany] produces some of the world’s best- known Gewurztraminers.  In the United States, most is grown in Washington and Oregon using ‘cool climate’ viticulture techniques.  Small plots of Ohio Gewurztraminer survive in vineyards that fall within the climactic influence of Lake Erie, its western islands and tributary rivers.  This week, with predictions of single digit lows will test the mettle of growers who are experimenting with it. 

‘Gewurz’ in German means ‘spicy.’  In most cellars, Gewurztraminer spends its entire life in stainless tanks to preserve its most appealing elements. Putting this wine in oak barrels would flatten the taste and undermine its best features. It is finished as a dry or off dry wine and is considered best when consumed young, within a year or two of harvest. After an extended time in a tank or bottle, these rather delicate wines will lose their freshness and charm. Gewurztraminer’s ‘nose’ emits a combination of musk, perfume, fruit and spicy aromas that is both distinctive and memorable.  Those characteristics continue to the palate when the wine is tasted.  The taster’s mouth is filled with complex and intense flavor combinations. When a ‘vintage’ year occurs, this wine will be full of incredibly interesting flavors with high alcohol, low acids and a soft, pleasant finish.

Even under normal conditions, it is difficult to grow in our region. The berries, like those of Pinot Gris, are pinkish gray, resulting in a wine that ranges from pink orange to deep yellow. As a ‘tender’ variety, extreme winter temperature fluctuations raise havoc in the vineyard. Its clusters are quite small, and its individual berries vary in size and shape within each bunch. By fall, berries may be green, others mature and they begin to rot. The underripe fruit contributes to higher than desirable acid levels, rotten fruit can ruin an entire vat. This complicates harvest decisions. In less-than-ideal growing years, finding an appropriate ‘balance’ in the wine cellar challenges the best winemaker’s skills.

Gewurztraminer is a great wine to serve with certain nontraditional entrees. It stands up well to oriental cuisine – and to a variety of wild game dishes like venison and wild turkey.  It is great with rather bland foods like pirogues. It also works well with most flavorful chicken entrees, creamy dishes and rich sauces. 

G-wiz wine is another of those wines to explore when you feel adventuresome.